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In the border town of Qaim, Iraq, where the Euphrates River flows near the central market, a humble yet remarkable venture is thriving. Alhan al-Salmani, a 50-year-old mother of six, has transformed her personal trauma into a beacon of hope for herself and other women in the community. She runs Al-Eiz, Qaim’s first takeaway kitchen, providing not only delicious meals but also a source of livelihood for many women.
Al-Eiz operates in a spacious building with six rooms and a large hall, where the aroma of traditional Iraqi dishes fills the air. Inside, 12 women work diligently beside a vast tanoor, a traditional clay oven. Pots of rice and meat simmer on the fire, and the preparation of kubba, an Iraqi dish of minced meat encased in rice, is in full swing. Each day, they produce around 200 plates of food, catering to a diverse clientele, including farmers, soldiers, workers from non-governmental organizations, and the 3,000 households in Qaim that are headed by women, most of whom are widows.
Salmani, both the manager and the chef, oversees the operation with gentle guidance. Orders come in by phone, and customers either pick up their meals or rely on taxi drivers to deliver them. The kitchen is a lifeline for many, offering sustenance and a taste of home. Khitam Hammad, who works for the International Rescue Committee, describes Alhan’s food as reminiscent of her grandmother’s cooking.
The women start their day at 7 am, preparing traditional Iraqi dishes such as timmen qouzi—braised lamb with rice cooked over a wood fire—and dolma, which consists of vine leaves and vegetables stuffed with a flavorful mixture of rice, meat, and herbs. Salmani works tirelessly for 10 hours each day, driven by her passion and resilience. “I don’t get tired,” she says, reflecting the strength she has cultivated over the years.
Salmani’s journey has been fraught with hardship. Forced out of school at 15 to marry, she watched her dreams of becoming a teacher slip away. By the age of 30, she was a widow, left to care for three young children after her husband, an army officer, was killed during the US-led invasion of Iraq in 2003. Her status as a widow brought stigma, and her brother pressured her into a second marriage, which only deepened her struggles with anxiety and depression.
Despite these challenges, Salmani never gave up. She believes her purpose in life is to support widows in her community. During the Islamic State’s invasion of Qaim in 2014, she endured months of fear and hunger. But even in the face of such adversity, she found a way to survive and eventually thrive. After fleeing to Baghdad, she began cooking and selling food from her kitchen, laying the groundwork for what would become Al-Eiz.
Today, Salmani’s kitchen stands as a symbol of resilience and hope, a place where women can find work, support each other, and take pride in their culinary heritage. “When life gets hard, you must be harder,” she says—a testament to the strength that has carried her through life’s darkest moments.